Hardwood Refinishing

Hardwood Refinishing in Denver, CO

Reviving existing hardwood flooring preserves original character while significantly extending the lifespan of your investment. It’s also an affordable alternative to removal and replacement. But is it right for you?

Should You Refinish or Replace Your Hardwood?

Worn or damaged hardwood may not necessarily need to be replaced altogether. During the refinishing process, we sand down your hardwood, removing its top coat and revealing the bare wood underneath. From there, we apply a fresh stain that will have it looking as good as new. 

When to Refinish:

  • Your hardwood has surface scratches or scuffs but is otherwise in good structural condition—no warping, cupping, gapping, splitting, or rot. 
  • Your hardwood is faded, discolored, or dull. The refinishing process removes this worn top layer, allowing for a fresh stain and a new protective coating. 
  • You want to preserve your original investment. Older Littleton homes often feature high-grade, tight-grain historic hardwoods—such as old-growth oak, maple, or Douglas fir—that are difficult or cost-prohibitive to source today. Refinishing retains your original hardwood. 
  • You want to update your hardwood’s stain tone to something more modern. 

When to Replace:

  • Your hardwood has deep gouges or split boards. 
  • You have engineered hardwood that has already been refinished multiple times and the wear layer is now too thin. 
  • Your hardwood has severe structural damage, such as warping, cupping, or rotting. 

Questions?

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Questions?

We're here to help

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Testing Your Hardwood’s Wear Layer

Hardwood can withstand multiple refinishing cycles over its lifetime, depending on the thickness of its wear layer. Before scheduling your service, we’ll need to ensure your hardwood has enough usable wear layer remaining. Here’s what we’ll look for: 


  • Engineered hardwood: Can be eligible for one or two refinishes over its lifespan if the wear layer is at least 3mm thick. Can be eligible for one or two refinishes over its lifespan if the wear layer is at least 3mm thick. Learning how to measure wear layer thickness on engineered hardwood helps you confirm whether your planks can handle a fresh sanding or if a screen and recoat is the safer route.

  • Solid hardwood: Does not have a dedicated wear layer, but standard ¾-inch solid hardwood usually gives you about 6mm to work with. Solid hardwood can undergo four to six refinishing life cycles over its lifespan.


How to Measure Your Wear Layer


  1. Remove a floor heating register or vent cover to expose a cross-section profile of your hardwood.

  2. Locate the tongue-and-groove joint. Measure the wood thickness from the top surface down to the top of earnings or the groove joint.

  3. If vent covers are unavailable, inspect where the hardwood terminates at doorways, transition strips, or stairs.

Preparing for Your Hardwood Refinish

On the day of your appointment, plan to keep pets and family members away from the workspace during active sanding and coating days. Fumes from oil-based finishes require ventilation, and wet coats must remain completely undisturbed. You should also plan to remove all rugs, curtains, artwork, and hanging light fixtures near the work area, as vibrations from heavy sanding equipment can rattle surrounding walls. Finally, seal off nearby doorways and HVAC vents with plastic sheeting to prevent fine dust particles from migrating to adjoining rooms. 

Our Hardwood Refinishing Process

Hardwood refinishing uses professional, heavy-grade machinery to bring your hardwood back to life. Here’s a look at our in-depth process: 


  1. We set exposed nails, repair damaged boards, and clean your hardwood. 

  2. We sand your flooring down, removing its old topcoat and stain. 

  3. We screen and buff your flooring for a seamless finish. 

  4. We apply the stain of your choice, along with protective polyurethane topcoats. 

Dustless Sanding Systems

Today’s modern refinishing equipment uses multi-stage vacuum containment. These HEPA-filtered vacuum units attach directly to drum sanders and belt edgers, capturing up to 98 percent of airborne dust at the point of contact, keeping indoor air clean and reducing post-job cleanup.

Screening vs. Deep Raw Sanding

  • Screening (also known as buffing) is a non-invasive method using a high-speed floor buffer with a fine abrasive mesh pad. Weighing screening and recoating versus full sanding shows you how to bring back a dull clear coat without stripping down to raw wood.

  • Deep raw sanding uses heavy drum sanders and progressive more abrasive grits (such as 36-grit to 100-grit) to completely remove old stains and finishes, exposing raw wood. 

Oil vs. Water-Based Polyurethane Coatings

  • Oil-based polyurethane requires 8 to 24 hours of dry time per coat and 14 to 30 days for a full cure. It leaves that classic amber hue that deepens over time and provides soft, flexible impact resistance, though it produces noticeable odors and higher VOC emissions.

  • Water-based polyurethane dries in two to four hours per coat and reaches a full cure in a week or two. It dries crystal clear to preserve natural wood tones, but comparing oil-based and water-based polyurethane finishes helps you decide which cure time and odor profile fits your household routine.

Hardwood Refinishing in Littleton, CO from Wagner Floors

Schedule Your Consultation Today

Ready to restore your existing hardwood flooring? Contact Wagner Floors today! We’re proud to serve the entire Denver Metro area with quality flooring products, professional repair and refinishing services, flooring installation, and more. Shop at home